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Silken Secrets |
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History of Silks |
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History was made around 3000 BC when the Chinese empress, Hsi-Ling-Shih, discovered the potential of the pests that were destroying the emperor's mulberry trees. Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih dropped a silkworm cocoon into boiling water in an attempt to discover a way to eradicate these mulberry tree eaters. To her astonishment, she found a thin thread like filament unraveling from the cocoon. Silk thread was discovered. One-time pests, the worms of the blind, flightless moth, Bombyx Mori, became China's pride and most zealously guarded secret.
For almost 2,000 years, the rest of the world lived in jealous awe of the marvelous Chinese fabric called silk. Even the famous Roman historian, Pliny, was baffled. In 70 BC, he wrote that "silk was obtained by removing the down of leaves with the help of a little water..." China reveled in its position as the world's only producer of silk and anyone caught trying to smuggle silkworm eggs out of China was put to death.
But eventually, the secret leaked out. In 200 BC, Chinese immigrants to Korea took the secret with them. In 300 AD, it is believed that India began silkworm cultivation. The West, however, remained in the dark, until 550 AD when two Nestorian monks from the Byzantine empire smuggled silkworm eggs out of China in their hollow bamboo walking sticks.
Silk trade was so lucrative that in 2 B.C. , an official Silk Road was opened. The road, the world's longest ever, stretched from Eastern China to the Mediterranean. Even, today, intrepid travelers get a thrill out of retracing the ancient Silk Road. |
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Kancheepuram |
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If it's an occasion, it has to be Kanjeevaram. For centuries, Indian women have reveled in the flattering beauty of elegant breathtaking creations from the weavers of Kancheepuram (formerly known as Kanjeevaram). Made out of pure mulberry silk and washed in the enhancing water of the Palar river, Kancheepuram silk has a dazzling luster. The sari, in turn, lights up the wearer which is why most women find Kanjeevaram saris irresistible.
Strangely, no one has been able to trace the history of silk in Kancheepuram. Yet, there are hereditary weaver communities like the Senguntha Mudaliars and the Saliyars who, for centuries, have known no other profession. For some centuries, Kancheepuram was the capital of the glorious Chola and Pallava dynasties. These rulers were patrons of arts and it is likely that they encouraged and patronized the skillful weavers. Today, there are over 30,000 weavers in the town.
A Kancheepuram sari is a marvel of both imagination and technique. You might appreciate your Kanjeevaram even more, if you knew what went into its creation.
Made out of double thread silk (which gives it that distinctive weight), a Kanjeevaram sari is simultaneously worked on by two weavers. The main weaver works on the body and the designs on the body (known as 'butta'), while the assistant works the shuttles that weave the border. Co-ordination and timing have to be perfect. This is why, the contrasting border of a Kanjeevaram sari seems to blend so smoothly with the body.
The designs used by the weavers are taken from evocative imagery. The elegant peacock, the graceful three bells of an anklet, the slender vanki (bracelet worn around the upper arm), the fresh mangoes and sweet grapes and shy creepers... all this and more lend their beauty to the sari. Even the colors are vibrant. A mango yellow body is set off by a deep maroon border. A parrot green body is complemented by a bright pink border. The combinations are endless but always aesthetic and complimentary to the lovely person wearing them. |
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Arni |
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| Arni is a little town located 130 km from Chennai. What puts Arni on the map is the stunning, lightweight handloom silk saris made by its skilled weavers. Responding to market demands for lighter and therefore less expensive silk saris, the Arni weavers use single thread silk. Their work is, nonetheless, exquisite. Arni saris are famous for their intricately woven borders and delicate but extensive zari work. Their lightness makes them drape well while their designs make them dressy and elegant. |
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Thirubuvanam |
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It's rare to find a whole town dedicated to one art, but Thirubuvanam is just that. Situated in Thanjavur district, Thirubuvanam was founded by the last of the Cholas, King Kulothunga III. It has been a silk-weaving town for several centuries and many of its weavers originally hailed from Saurashtra in Gujarat.
What sets Thirubuvanam saris apart is the fact that they are made from filature silk. Their quality and sheen are legendary. Decorated with extensive zari work, the saris come with both single and double borders. Skilled weavers meld the border and body of the sari into a seamless flow. Zari buttas decorate the body. The zari is gold coated pure silver thread. These saris are so popular that the Thirubuvanam Cooperative Silk Society is the largest in Tamil Nadu. |
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Salem |
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Salem doesn't stop at silk saris. This town in western Tamil Nadu is also famed for its handloom silk dhothies, shirtings and angavastrams. Even today, Salem supplies clothing to the idols in the temple town of Tirupathi.
Around 16 silk handloom weavers' cooperative societies produce Salem's silk creations. Salem silks are popular because they combine high quality with lower prices. Just what most consumers shop around for! Salem silk saris, in particular, are lighter and softer than most silk saris and drape beautifully. |
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